Drinking Water Well Basics
What is an onsite water supply system (well)?
In areas where public water supply is not available, homeowners must
install a well to pump groundwater to their home home. Washtenaw County
homeowners should feel confident that safe, adequate water will be obtained
on their property. However, there are some areas in the County where water
quality and quantity can be an issue. For more information on these areas,
contact Planning & Environment at (734) 222-3800.
What are typical water supply system components?
- Casing: The casing is a tube in the
ground that houses the well pump and the pipe that moves water from the
pump to the surface. It also prevents the hole from collapsing, and keeps
contaminants from entering the water supply. Modern well casings are
typically 5” plastic (PVC) pipe.
- Cap: The cap is the top of the well
casing. The cap must end at least one foot above ground so it is not
subject to flooding. The cap usually has a screened vent to prevent insects
from entering the well.
- Pump: The well pump draws water up the
hole and pushes it into the home. The well pump is usually submersible.
This means the pump is installed in the well casing several feet below
ground, making it operate more quietly.
- Pressure Tank: The pressure tank is
usually a 3’-4’ tall cylinder located in the home. It stores water and
distributes it through the home at an even pressure. The tank can also
serve as additional storage for low-yield wells. The pressure switch
located at the tank controls the pump’s on/off cycle.
- Pitless Adapter: The pitless adapter is a
plumbing fitting that attaches to the well casing and routes the water
supply line from the pump to the home. It is installed approximately 4’
below ground so it is not subject to freezing. Before these were invented,
old wells often terminated below ground in pits, or basement off-sets. Pits
are no longer necessary, hence the name “pitless adapter”.
- Screen: The screen is at the very bottom
of the well, attached to the casing. It keeps sand and gravel out of the
well while allowing groundwater to flow into the well. Some wells drilled
into bedrock do not need screens since the water travels through crevices
in the rock, and there is no sand to filter out.
What tests do new wells need?
Once the well is installed, the water must be tested to show it is safe.
Sample bottles are available from
Planning & Environment. New wells must be tested for:
- Bacteria: Must be negative.
- Arsenic: Must be 10
parts per billion (ppb) or less.
- Nitrates: Must be 10
parts per million (ppm) or less.
Does my well need any maintenance?
Most wells have a long service life of over 20 years. Follow these tips
to ensure a safe supply of drinking water:
- Keep household chemicals, paint and motor oil away from your well and
dispose of them properly by taking them to a recycling center or
household hazardous waste collection site.
- Limit your use of pesticides and fertilizers.
- Keep your well cap clear of leaves, mulch, dirt, snow and other
materials.
- Use caution when mowing around your well so you don't damage the well
casing.
- Practice water conservation in your home and install low-water-use
appliances.
- Keep your well records (such as the well construction report, water
test results, and maintenance records) in a safe place.
- Test your water yearly for bacteria
(E. Coli)!
For more information, please contact:
This is printed from: http://www.ewashtenaw.org/government/departments/environmental_health/wells_septic/eh_wellbasics.html
on Sep. 6, 2008 8:25 pm